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My Thesis Passed!

Been meaning to post this, but in case you didn’t hear, my thesis passed. This means I will graduate and receive my Master’s from QUB on Dec 8th. Of course, I’m going back to Belfast for the ceremony.

My thesis was titled, “Rural Brain Drain: Exploring and Comparing the Crisis in Alabama and Northern Ireland.” Of course, given the economic hardships in the Republic of Ireland & numerous stories of young people again fleeing Ireland, it appears this is somewhat timely. Glad this didn’t break while I was writing or it would have probably threw me off course. Regardless, below is the abstract and an excerpt from my final conclusion. If you are interested or need some bedtime reading to help you sleep, you can always read the whole thing!

Abstract:

Objective: To explore the rural brain drain crisis in Alabama and Northern Ireland in order to provide a comparative narrative on the problems faced and solutions proposed by the two areas.

With little prospect of quality career options and a limited range of social services and leisure activities, many young adults have chosen never return to their rural communities after finishing university degrees, which has led to a brain drain crisis. An extensive literature review was carried out to provide a framework of rural brain drain theories and existing research on the problems in the two regions. The researcher employed semi-structured focused interviews in discussions with elected officials, rural policymakers, farming interest groups, and young people that have left rural areas in both Alabama and Northern Ireland to investigate the causes, effects, and proposed solutions for rural brain drain. The presented narratives identified the lack of quality job opportunities as the primary cause of rural brain drain in both Alabama and Northern Ireland. Participants also expressed that the lack of services and entertainment and the insular nature of rural communities were a contributing factor to the problem. In terms of effects, the rural brain drain was believed to cause a further decline in rural areas, including more brain drain, a loss of future community leaders, and a declining number of young farmers. The research illuminated four potential solutions to the rural brain drain crisis: creating more quality rural jobs, the deployment of broadband, youth engagement and outreach, and using partnerships and incentives to encourage local development.

Conclusions:

After the review of literature and the completed study, the researcher agrees with the premise that jobs are the key concern when dealing with rural brain drain. In order to create jobs in rural communities, the researcher recommends that both Alabama and Northern Ireland develop schemes that encourage entrepreneurial young people to move into rural communities and create small businesses. Through a programme that provides support and mentoring to these young people and offers financial incentives such as start-up funding, loans, or tax credits, young people would be enticed back into rural areas. As such, a young entrepreneursip proposal could also specifically target areas of potential economic growth such as renewable energy and organic/local farming as discussed in Chapter 2. In addition to creating small businesses, Northern Ireland and Alabama must strive to recruit industries into rural communities. Recruitment efforts could be more successful by following the ideas proposed by Ivey to target high-tech firms in emerging sectors such as biomedical and aerospace while also attempting to better match industry size to community size and capacity. The researcher also recommends broadband deployment as an essential solution in improving the economic competitiveness of rural communities and improving the quality of life for residents. Lastly, the researcher recommends that rural areas must be more innovative in outreach and more inclusive in engaging with rural youth in order to build leaders who will want to reside and play a role in rural communities.

If places like Alabama and Northern Ireland are going to put an end to, or at least slow down, the rural brain drain crisis, they will have to get serious in understanding the need for jobs and the quality of life issues that could entice and retain young people to live in rural areas while also building young leaders who have a strong community bond. Change will have to be driven through the political processes by concerned and committed stakeholders who understand that these policies must be implemented in order to save rural communities. Without a formal recognition of the problem and attempts at aggressive action to solve it, rural areas will continue on a cycle of brain drain as they struggle to survive. 

 

Example of Social Farming

Now that the thesis is done, I will start trying to wrap up this blog & my year in Northern Ireland.

For now though, check out this video on Growing Connections, one of the social farms located in Bangor, NI that I got to work with in my internship at DARD. They are a great organization run by some really dedicated, quality folks. Plus, there are just some great shots of the gorgeous NI rural landscape and their farm!

Wordle: Rural Brain Drain

Given Senator George Mitchell’s role as the Obama Administration’s Middle East envoy, and given his previous role as the Chairman of the Northern Ireland peace talks, which lead to the Belfast Agreement in 1998, there has been much talk about comparisons between the two conflicts.

In 2008, the US-Ireland Alliance marked the tenth anniversary of the Belfast Agreement with a symposium in Northern Ireland which brought together the major players to discuss their achievement, tens years later.   The entire symposium was recorded and if you’d like to see and hear what they had to say, click on this link.

http://www.us-irelandalliance.org/wmspage.cfm?parm1=800

Participants in the symposium were:

Davy Adams
Gerry Adams
Bertie Ahern
John Alderdice
David Andrews
John de Chastelain
Mark Durkan
Sir Reg Empey
John Hume
Monica McWilliams
George Mitchell
Paul Murphy
Liz O’Donnell
Dawn Purvis

Final Mitchell Reflection

Well, my final reflection for the Mitchell Scholarship is posted below. As always, you can check out my classmates thoughts here as well.

Adam, you are transforming into a full-blooded Irishman. To me this Facebook message from my friend, Barry, meant one thing: success. My goal for this year was to really absorb as much of Ireland & its culture as possible. With family roots in Northern Ireland, I wanted to leave feeling connected as a part of this magnificent place. As I reflect back on my time here, I know that my goal has been accomplished. As further proof, I get really gloomy and have a difficult time fathoming what it will be like to leave this wonderful island that I have called home for the last year.

It is hard to summarize my time here as I have had terrific experiences meeting so many fabulous people, traveling to take in new sights, and learning more than I could have ever expected. Looking back over the last month alone is enough to blow one’s mind. After finishing exams, Bre, Christina, Alec, Neil & I took a real European holiday to Tenerife in the Canary Islands. A week later, I returned to Ireland very tan and ready for Mitchell commencement in Dublin. After some kind words from President Mary McAleese, we received our class rings, which serve to remind us of our connection to Ireland and to one another. A night out in Dublin was the proper way for us to ring out the year before people began to depart.

After a trip to Writer’s Week & Glin Castle, I then headed to Limerick to meet my friends, Thomas & Daniel. Here I got to see the Ireland International Rugby team play a match in Thomond Park, one of the largest and more historic stadiums in the country. From here, Daniel & I got to attend a birthday party at a beach home in rural County Clare. Highlights included gorgeous scenery in Clare, once again being stereotyped and entertaining people with Sweet Home Alabama, and witnessing the reactions of my “Nordie” friend Daniel in his first trip that far south into the Republic. Then, it was back to Belfast where I presented my research on social farming to stakeholders from around Northern Ireland. I did not expect that my work for DARD would result in people thanking me for bringing attention to the topic and really galvanizing a movement here.

After this, I ended up on two roadtrips. The first took Bre, Christina, myself & a visiting friend up the Causeway Coast and into Donegal to gaze at the striking majesty of Slieve League. On the way, we managed to stop for coasteering: a new adventure sport that puts you in a wetsuit and sends you climbing over rocky cliffs to jump into the ocean! After this trip, Bre & I were inspired to adventure into the southwest of Ireland to see everything we could. Travelling almost 1,000 miles in 5 days, we crossed the Wicklow Mountains, drank Smithwick’s at the brewery in Kilkenny, successfully drove both the Ring of Kerry & the Dingle Peninsula, gazed at the legendary Cliffs of Moher, paid homage to our Southern roots and Gone with the Wind at the Hill of Tara, and visited with the Parnell Marinos in Galway before they left for the states. To top it off, I’m back in Belfast continuing work on my thesis on rural brain drain, where I was even lucky enough to get to meet with Michelle Gildernew, the Minister of Agriculture and Rural Development, to get her comments on the topic.

All of this has taken place in the last month alone, and that’s not even including the farewell parties and my new found obsession with football (soccer) as I try my best not to miss a World Cup match. Nor does it include my getting involved with the political process here in seeing Prime Minister David Cameron come to Northern Ireland just before the election or getting to ask a question at the nationally televised leaders’ debate on BBC. I am now less than three weeks away from leaving myself, and while I am excited to see family and friends at home, I am filled with dread about parting with the life I have created for myself in Northern Ireland. I still am astonished at how I have become completely immersed in this place in such a short time. My life has been completely changed by this experience. When I came here, I worried about surviving outside of the US without my family, my friends, Crimson Tide football, politics, and sweet tea. I leave here worrying about how I will adjust to live back stateside and how I’ll survive without my brilliant Irish friends, rugby & soccer, my daily dose of sectarian politics, and Irish staples like Harp, kebabs, and shortbread biscuits.

I consider myself the luckiest person in the world and feel humbled for this opportunity that was given to me. For that, I must thank Trina, Jennie, Mary Lou, and all the supporters of the US-Ireland Alliance. I have been blessed by the chance to study at a terrific university in Queen’s and live in the one of the most interesting cities and countries in the world. I must also thank Jude Stephens and the staff of the Gibson Institute for sharing their knowledge of rural development and giving me the support I need to successfully learn. I also need to thank Zita Murphy and the staff at DARD for giving me a meaningful internship that was more than I could have asked for in providing me with real life practical experience. My time here would not have been so fulfilling without wonderful friends. I consider all of my fellow classmates and fellow rural champions as my friends and colleagues now. I appreciate them taking me under their wings and dealing with my incessant questions about the litany of things I did not understand when I first came here. Special thanks to Barry McCarron, Daniel McDowell, and Thomas Kelleher for everything…you lads are the best! Lastly, I must thank my fellow Mitchell Scholars who I have bonded with over the past year. You all have enriched my experience here, and for that, I am grateful. However, I am especially thankful that I had a partner-in-crime here in Belfast. Bre, I’m so glad I had you as a friend to keep me company in watching American TV, eating tons of Nando’s, travelling, and being ridiculous as often as humanly possible.

Well, as they say here, that’s me sorted. It’s time to go home and get back to work in America. While I wanted to become part of the culture here, I never expected that I would so fully embrace it to the point that I do not want to let go. The good news is that I won’t have to let go. From now on, I will identify myself with Ireland while proudly claiming my Ulster heritage. I plan to be back here as often as possible to visit friends and to get my fill of the banter and accents, the stunning landscapes, and the tragic history of this place and its effects moving forward. So Ireland, thanks for memories and friendships that will last a lifetime. Slán go fóill!

The Proof…

…of how nasty I was after 4 days at a music festival!

Greasy hair...be glad there's no smell demo here

The clothes don’t look that bad since I did change into a clean set for the travel home. Never has a shower felt so good. In fact, I’ve been obsessed with feeling clean since returning taking 2 showers a day for a total of 7 since Monday night! Now, for the mood evidence (which is still in the process of cleaning)…

My lifesavers...the boots!

T in the Park

I successfully survived my first ever music festival & have recovered from the experience. I have to say that it is one of the most fun things that I have ever done. It all started on Thurs when I got up early to catch the 7 am ferry to Scotland. My friend Daniel that I was going with had to reschedule his boat til Friday, so I was meeting the rest of the crew for the first time at the terminal. They were a great bunch of people from Northern Ireland…all from the Protestant side of things here. I was especially pleased to have them be so welcoming to a random Alabamian to keep me entertained and from getting lost/confused until Daniel showed up the next day. Of course, they took a liking to my accent, and most of the first day (and a good bit of the whole weekend) was spent playing the let’s get Adam to pronounce different words game. When they were asking me if it was annoying me, I realized that this was one of the things that I would really miss. I have to say that I do enjoy the attention that I get for being a unique Southern among all the Irish of the island. After a couple of bus rides, we ended up at the site and made our way through the line to get into the festival. It was quite a line…30,000 people come early to camp on the Thurs night & the total festival attracts around 90,000 for the weekend! We just spent the evening hanging around our campsite after we got all the tents set up. We used the Northern Ireland flag to mark our spot, which became quite controversial in Scotland thanks to all the Catholic-Protestant troubles. Didn’t expect it to carry over to Scottish people though. Also prob didn’t help that this was the weekend for the Orange Marches when tensions are higher…and of course, the ones I were with singing Unionist songs.

Friday, we got up and were eventually joined by Daniel & one of the boy’s friends from Glasgow. He had jumped on our bus without a ticket at the last minute and managed to find a cheap ticket that night and eventually find us by only looking for the flag! Rain started on Friday, which quickly turned everything into a muddy mess. It also meant that we jammed 9 people into one tent when we were hanging out before the music started. The first show we caught was Florence + The Machine…the one I most wanted to see. She really is a phenomenal singer. Her album is called Lungs & it is a good title cause she really can belt it out. Best song was her new one Heavy in Your Arms, which is featured on the Twilight Eclipse soundtrack. After that, the group split and I went to see the Black Eyed Peas. They were amazing as well. Good show mixing up their songs with Fergie and will.I.am’s solo stuff.

Saturday was by far the best day in terms of music. Heavier rain that am really turned everything to a mucky mess…thank goodness for my rainproof cowboy boots! We saw tons of great music including Paolo Nutini, The Coral, Stereophonics, Rodrigo y Gabriela, Mumford & Sons, and Eminem. All were great! I was surprised by Rodrigo y Gabriela, a Mexican guitar duo that I hadn’t heard of before. Both of them, but especially Gabriela, plays a guitar like nothing I have ever seen before. Mumford & Sons was the highlight of the weekend for sure. Their show was mind-blowingly good, and we were right at the front of the stage. Check out my fav song of theirs to hear how good they are. Only downside to their show was this Scottish girl who tricked me into letting her wear my hat & putting her on my shoulders for part of the show. When it was over, she ran off with my Alabama hat! I was not very happy, but at least I spread around Crimson Tide-ness. After Mumford, we caught the end of Eminem, which was his most popular songs. He was good, but I’m not really a fan. I much prefered the folk sounds of Mumford. I like them before their show, but I have been obsessed since seeing them…listened to the whole album 3 or 4 times since getting back home on Mon.

Sunday was the craziest day of the festival as we tried to just fit in as much as possible for the last night. Bands we saw included: Babyshambles, The Cribs, Jay-Z, Bombay Bicycle Club, and Kasabian. These were spread all across the site, so we were constantly running around, whereas Saturday everything had been in two venues right beside each other. We jammed out all night and had a great time regardless of the fact that by this point we were quite disgusting and smelly. It was a terrific party night and a great way to close out my festival experience.

Monday, we got up and packed to leave. We had intentions of bringing out tent back, but in the end (like most people who camp at T) couldn’t be bothered to do it and just left it there. We then started the long journey back to Belfast, which included laying on the concrete at the Glasgow bus station for 4 hours! We literally looked and smelled like homeless people. I did learn some interesting things about festivals. First, the bathrooms are horrid/putrid. Honestly worse than the nastiest things I have seen on the farm! Smell was so bad that I couldnt even enter or walk by without gagging. Thank goodness they got cleaned once a day and thats when I learned to always go for a visit! Secondly, there is so much music that you can’t squeeze it all in! I had intentions to see other bands, but they would be scheduled at the same time and far apart. Plus, it’s always good to see some new stuff, so I still feel like I got the best possible experience. Lastly, you get pretty nasty not showering for 4 days! I changed clothes a couple of times and would wipe off with baby wipes. Between the mud, people throwing cups of drink & worse at shows, and just general dirt, I was a sight & smell to behold by the time I got home. Bre said I literally looked homeless, rated my stench on a scale of 1-10 as a 9, and said she could smell me 6 foot before I got to her. Feel sorry now for all those people who had to sit by me on the way home and understand why we were all getting stared at on Monday!

I did miss out on the Orange craziness in Belfast, but I am confident that I made the better choice. T in the Park is a memory I will never ever forget! Plus, the riots happening here in the aftermath of the 12th also makes me feel better! Tomorrow is my going away party, and I am already packed up to move out on Friday. Staying with Daniel that night and he is taking me to the airport Saturday, which I am very grateful for with all the stuff I have to lug! Will update on the going away festivities and the trek home, plus some wrap up posts over the next few weeks.

Since my return from the road trips, I have been pretty focused on thesis research. Well, at least on my interviews. I have done some work pulling articles to use for my lit review, but I can’t get quite motivated to read them and start drafting the lit review. I have done a good job of scheduling and carrying out interviews. I first talked with folks at the Ulster Farmers’ Union for over an hour. It was a good conversation discussing the role of the recession on brain drain and the fact that agriculture is also affected by the problem. I also got a chance to interview two of the DARD staffers that I worked with. While we talked about the policy issues of brain drain, I also got to have a personal conversation with them about their experience growing up in a rural area and being part of the brain drain that never returned. Was very interesting hearing their perspective on not going back and still working on rural issues, since this is something I struggle with myself.

Lastly, I got the chance to meet & chat with DARD Minister Michelle Gildernew. The Minister is one of the more personable and colorful politicians that I have met in a long time. She definitely has more personality that any Northern Ireland elected official that I have met! She is a Sinn Fein Minister & Member of Parliament. However, with her party, she abstains from taking her seat at Westminster. She is such a kind person with a really terrific sense of humor. After meeting her, I can understand how she pulled off her impressive win in May (by 4 votes!) as I feel that many people probably vote for her personally instead of just voting for her party. She is well versed in rural issues since she represents the rural west of Fermanagh/South Tyrone. She talked with me about what she sees as the problems with rural brain drain in Northern Ireland. She also took the opportunity to thank me for my work on social farming and told me stories about when she met with former USDA Sec Mike Johanns (now a GOP Senator from Nebraska), including him helping out NI when they had the outbreak of foot & mouth disease. I left very impressed with her! If the rest of Sinn Fein were like her, they could be much more popular and immensely more effective. Plus, I was happy to see one person with a strong grasp of economic issues, since that is something the party tends to ignore in my opinion. Hopefully, she will continue to rise in leadership.

Had my birthday this weekend. I had a nice, relaxing day. Bre & I got up and hit St. George’s Market, my last trip there :( . We had lunch and Bre bought my cupcakes, yum! From there, we eventually hit up the infamous happy hour at Madison’s, ate dinner at Nando’s, and caught a movie. We went to see The Killer Inside Me. My advice: don’t see it. Too much brutality in what is just a really twisted, sick film. Sadly, there were no fireworks or BBQ. It was def a good birthday that I will always remember, but I think being born on the 4th of July really just means you have to be in America for a proper celebration! Anyway, tomorrow I head to Scotland with my friend Daniel and some of his friends for the weekend. We are heading over to T in the Park, a 3 day outdoor music festival, so I’ll spend the weekend camping out and listening to some great music, including Florence + The Machine, Mumford & Sons, Paolo Nutini, Scouting for Girls, Kasabian, Muse, Jay-Z, Eminem, Black Eyed Peas, 30 Seconds to Mars, Vampire, Weekend and John Mayer, among many many others.  Some good American bands in there, but mostly British stuff that I have fallen in love with over the last year. Looking forward to that, then its back to Belfast to wrap things up, pack, and have my going away soiree next Thursday. Then, I’m Bammy Bound on the 17th.

After the first roadtrip, Bre & I decided to take another one to see everything on the island that we wanted to see before leaving. We’ll call this the Great Bradam Adventure…Bradam, the nickname the Mitchells gave to the dynamic troublemaking duo that is myself & Bre. We rented a car and planned out our route, mostly in Southwest Ireland. This meant though that one of us would have to drive. Lucky me won the chance to test my skills at driving on the wrong side of the road through tiny rural roads…yipee! We spent the extra money to get an automatic (otherwise, we wouldn’t have gotten anywhere). Our car, a four door Nissan Micra that we nicknamed Harold, was pretty beat up & lacked rims. The Belfast Budget staff told us it was a Republic car, so they didn’t care what happened to it as along as we didn’t crash. We headed out on Wednesday & I adjusted to driving the car pretty well. We did have one near accident due to confusing diversions (detours) in Newry. I had to pull in to turn around after missing the right exit on a roundabout. Then, this idiot comes in a blocks me & my sight as I’m trying to pull out. Ended up pulling out in front of an oncoming Ulsterbus cause I couldn’t see. Luckily, instincts kicked in & I didn’t hesitate. I just zoomed out quickly saving us from being run over. After that, we had no more problems with near wrecks.

Our first stop was in Glendalough to see the Wicklow Mountains. While the view was gorgeous there, I felt it was overrated compared to the many other mountains in Ireland. From there, we headed to the medieval city of Kilkenny. On the way, we passed what might be the funniest thing I have ever seen driving…an overpass on the motorway for cows to walk between two pastures. It was so hilarious to see cows just crossing a bridge. A day later, we then saw cows literally eating a billboard in their pasture…pretty funny that is was a beer advert & they were munching on the beer glass.

Kilkenny is a wonderful little town. Def in my top 5 places in the Republic. We walked around the town and ended up settling at a bar on the river to take in the sunset over the castle & river. We had originally planned to leave early the next morning, but we were enticed by good shops, a farmer’s market, the castle, & a tour of the Smithwick’s brewery to stick around for half the day. While the farmer’s market was a bust, the castle was interesting to tour. Well preserved with good gardens, plus it was free with our OPW cards thanks to the Mitchell benefits. From there, we did what we do best: hitting the shops. I finally found my green Ireland rugby jersey that I had been so badly wanting, and it was even on sale. From there, we headed to the Smithwick’s brewery for a tour. We found out that they have only starting giving tours very recently since this is their 300th anniversary, so I was pretty excited to see where one of my fav beers is made. Our tour guide was really fantastic at explaining the history of the Smithwick’s family & the importance of the brewery to the city over the past 300 years. We even got to see the original Abbey where brewing started! Of course, we got a pint to taste at the end, which we savored before heading off.

We next headed to see the Rock of Cashel. However, getting there was a painful experience on what may have been the worst rural roads we encountered. The road was narrow (almost to the point of being one lane), the hedges came right onto the road & even hung down, plus much of it was unpaved with giant potholes. It took over an hour to go about 35 miles. It was worth it to see Cashel though. The Rock is the traditional seat of the Kings of Munster (one of Ireland’s 4 historical provinces). The site also has affiliations with St. Patrick as it is here he supposedly converted one of the kings in the 5th century. The current buildings on the site date from the 1100 & 1200s. It is a really imposing site of so much stone work elevated over all its surrounding scenery. Cormac’s Chapel there even still has original wall paintings from 1130s, which in itself is simply amazing. Well worth the visit. From there, we drove on down to Killarney for the night. This would be our starting point for driving the Ring of Kerry. Killarney is surrounded by the beautiful Kerry mountains. We had a nice hostel in the city, but the bed was the hardest bed I have ever slept on. I really might have been better on the floor! We grabbed a good dinner at a local steakhouse, watched the Mexico game in a local pub, and then listened to some trad music at another one. I was pretty pleased to find a Scottish beer there, Innis & Gunn, which I had tried in Edinburgh & is one of the best beers I have ever had with its toffee, vanilla, & oak flavors.

We got up on Friday & hit the road. We drove both the Ring of Kerry & the Dingle Peninsula in one day before making the trek to Galway. Both peninsulas were pretty great scenery with their coastal drives, mountain views, and small villages. However, Dingle def won hands down as the road literally had you right on the coast & you were looking across at the Kerry Mountains, which are so gorgeous and you can’t really see their beauty when you are driving right next to them. We made a stop in Dingle town for lunch enjoying some fresh seafood. More importantly, we found the Dingle ice cream store. We had tried the ice cream in Killarney the previous night. With ice cream flavors ranging from Kerry Cream to sea salt & caramel to Guinness & Bailey’s, the ice cream was just phenomenal. Makes me excited for homemade ice cream in Alabama. Randomly, we ran into a couple we had met on our Smithwick’s tour. They were really nice people from Maryland, who had just randomly decided to do a week-long trip to Ireland. Still can’t believe we saw them twice…shows what a small place Ireland is. From here, we headed to Tralee where we intended to stop & watch the USA-Slovenia match. I must point out that while driving these rural roads are bad enough on their own, meeting & getting behind tractors constantly complicates everything. In this one day of driving in County Kerry, we had to meet over 30 on the road, which means you were always having to pull over for an oversized one or waiting for a (rare) straight away to pass one. It’s not that crazy in Alabama for sure. We made it to Tralee in time for the game & ended up in a strange little pub. It was just us and the owner, an elderly woman of about 70. She told us that she was born in the bar & it had always been in her family. There were just benches to sit on & there was only one bathroom, which comes from when bars only served men. The woman told us how most tourists skip Tralee, which is easy to understand since there is nothing there. It was a great experience for us though. We got frustrated with the USA team & left midway through the 2nd half. We heard on the radio though about our goal & the disallowed one. Still happy that we didn’t lose.

From there, we passed through Limerick & headed to Galway to visit Jon & Lauren Parnell Marino. They have been wanting us to come visit, so I am finally glad we made it happen right before they left. They took us around that night to see the bay & the famous swans. The sunset was especially beautiful this evening, which was nice to see. Galway is a small little town with narrow, winding, & confusing streets, which date back to the city’s founding. They showed us around the town to just get a lay out of everything. We called it an early night in anticipation of Saturday. The next morning, we got up and hit the Galway market. For lunch, I went to McDonaghs which is famous for having the best fish & chips. It did not disappoint, especially considering the fish I chose was catfish! Forgot how much I love catfish…another thing I’ll have to eat back in Alabama next month. From there, Bre & I jumped in the car for a drive to the famous Cliffs of Moher. This was another terrible road made worse by meeting giant tour buses. We passed through The Burren, a rocky and barren landscape, on our way. The Cliffs were really spectacular. Many of the Mitchells give them a bad rap, but I def think they are worth the visit. While not as high as Slieve League, they are more dramatic with their straight drop-offs. It was a great sunny day, so we really enjoyed walking around there & getting out on the edge. I finally caved & bought one of the family history things that all the tourist sites have. I had to get it when I read about the Harbison’s being part of the families that were banished from Scotland but given land in Northern Ireland to be good protestants (the way the English controlled the Irish catholic majority). We then headed back to Galway for Lauren & Jon’s going away party. We had a good evening sitting by the bay, visiting a pub, and ending the night dancing in a crowded club. So sad to go to other’s going away parties as it just reminds me that my own isn’t far off.

Sunday, Bre & I got up to head back to Belfast. We decided to stop by the Hill of Tara along the way. Being a good Southerner & a fan of Gone With the Wind, I probably couldn’t live with myself if I didn’t see the Irish namesake of the O’Hara’s plantation. Tara is the ancient seat and burial site of the Kings of Ireland. Today, Tara is a series of mounds on a high point that provides unobstructed viewpoints to the Wicklow Mountains in the South & the Mourne Mountains in the North. It is a very intriguing site as work is continually done to understand the circular layout and points that correspond with other surrounding mounds. From here, we had plans to easily bypass the motorway tolls & make it home quickly. However, the roadmap lied and we got lost for over an hour. We finally got back on track, but it wasn’t the route we had planned & took longer. We did avoid the tolls though, which we were happy about. In our being lost, we passed through tons of little villages in County Meath, including Slane which is famous as the most dangerous stretch of road on the island. Ireland likes to put up signs telling you how many people have died on roads for set time periods…just a bit morbid for me. We also surprisingly got to pass the Battle of the Boyne site & saw the tower once erected by the Orange forces to commemorate King Billy’s victory over the catholic James. However, the tower today lies in shambles as the IRA blew it up in the Easter Uprising & staked a Tricolor on top of the pile of stones, which is how it still appears today. We made it back to Belfast unscathed but pretty tired. We had gone over 1600 kilometers (just under 1,000 miles) in 4 days. It was well worth the many miles & the big costs of renting a car and buying petrol (gas). For such a tiny car, it cost about 40 euro ($50) each time we had to fill up (which was 4 times). The trip was a truly amazing adventure for us. We got to see all the sites we had wanted to see but hadn’t gotten to visit yet. I can now say that I have really been all over this island, which only reaffirmed my love for Ireland. I even love it considering the terrible CD set of Irish music that was our trip soundtrack in the car. This is a terrific place full of wonderful people, gorgeous scenery, a tragic history, and brilliant experiences. Chalk this up as another memory of this year that I will never ever forget.

Roadtrips Part 1

It really has been a hectic month, & here I thought June would be a relaxing month of doing thesis work (neither of which have happened). After getting back from the boys’ weekend in Limerick/Clare, I first had a class night-out on Tuesday to say goodbye to Iona. Iona is the only other non-Irish student in my class. She is from Kenya but has many relatives in the states & loves the US of A! So obviously, we connected over our pro-American views and being the outsiders here. Even though she loves Obama, she even once defended President Bush to our classmates, including all the work he did for Africa. It caused quite a rile with the class, but I relished seeing the confused looks on everyone’s faces. Anyway, we all had a good night on the town dancing away…Iona’s fav. The first person leaving was just another reminder of my time running out here. That Friday, I presented my social farming research to all the key stakeholders in Northern Ireland. They were all very excited by my report and credited me with bringing everyone together to really jumpstart the movement. Several even told me they wished I was staying to continue the work, & I would respond, “Please don’t tempt me anymore than I already am to stay!”

Later that Friday night, my good friend and fellow Truman Scholar, Ingrid Price from Utah, came over for a visit. Ingrid has been working on a Masters in International Relations at Cambridge this year. She hopped over for the weekend in between finishing her thesis and getting ready to go home to attend Stanford Law! Friday was also the kick-off of the World Cup, which I have become obsessed with. We decided to throw a party to welcome Ingrid & all the soccer craziness. In the theme of Mexico playing the first game, we had a fiesta complete with fajitas & Corona. It was a good night of watching the footy (Irish slang for football aka soccer) & catching up. Saturday, we got up to hit the St. George’s Market before taking Ingrid on a bus tour of the city. We found our way onto a special tour that came with live music entertainment that alternated between Van Morrison & trad…very interesting. That night, we went to the US Consulate’s watch party for the big game: USA vs. England. The Consulate knows how to throw a proper party. Hosted at Tony Roma’s, we walked in the door to be greeted with a Coor’s Light & were treated to a meal of baby-back ribs, chicken wings & fingers, all kinds of salad, cole slaw, & fries. It was AMAZING! And to top it off, we were able to draw with England thanks to the slippery fingers of their goalie, Green. I got so excited when we scored that I jumped up, hit a lamp, and spilled a drink. That much excitement is just another sign of my growing into a soccer fan…that & the USA jersey I was wearing (and have worn for every USA game since).

Sunday morning, the four Trumans (myself, Ingrid, Bre & Christina) headed off on a mini-adventure. We rented a car & Christina drove us up the Causeway Coast. Our first stop was the small harbor town of Ballintoy where we were signed up to go Coasteering. I was signed up to go not knowing what I was getting myself into. The website simply said it involved walking, scrambling, jumping, swimming and sometimes crawling over cliffs in a wetsuit! I was a bit nervous about jumping off cliffs…and putting on a wetsuit. I am glad to report that coasteering was an unbelievable experience. Thanks to Christina for sort of forcing me into it. Such a rush to swim out to rocky islands & jump off them. Plus, wearing a wetsuit was neat & I was quite impressed at how warm it kept me. I will say coasteering is not for people overly concerned about safety as it is unregulated which means there is no real qualifications for a guide & we never had to sign any waivers! After getting our adrenaline fill, we headed up to the Causeway & Bushmills…two of my fav places in Northern Ireland considering I have been there so many times. It was a beautiful, sunny day, so I relished the chance to get some more good photographs of the scenery.

From there, we drove northward to County Londerderry making a stop at the Mussenden Temple, which sits on a cliff. Very gorgeous sight with the round temple, a castle with a Antebellum home facade, and a flowing field that reminded me of the scenes in the film, Gladiator. From there, we crossed the border into County Donegal & after some confusion found our hostel in Letterkenny. Monday, we got up & headed to Slieve League, Europe’s highest sea cliffs. Note: the roads in rural Donegal are TERRIBLE! First time, I have gotten car sick in quite a while & I was soooo close to losing in on the drive but made a recovery with a break & some AC. Finally making it to the cliffs was worth it though. They are really stunning. So high that even on a great day, they were still partially covered by clouds. We had a picnic on the edge & hiked around taking in all their daring & majestic height. From there, we headed back to Belfast to send Ingrid back to England. It was a great trip though & I’m glad she got to visit us. Photos below…credit to Ingrid for some I borrowed off her blog.

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