After the first roadtrip, Bre & I decided to take another one to see everything on the island that we wanted to see before leaving. We’ll call this the Great Bradam Adventure…Bradam, the nickname the Mitchells gave to the dynamic troublemaking duo that is myself & Bre. We rented a car and planned out our route, mostly in Southwest Ireland. This meant though that one of us would have to drive. Lucky me won the chance to test my skills at driving on the wrong side of the road through tiny rural roads…yipee! We spent the extra money to get an automatic (otherwise, we wouldn’t have gotten anywhere). Our car, a four door Nissan Micra that we nicknamed Harold, was pretty beat up & lacked rims. The Belfast Budget staff told us it was a Republic car, so they didn’t care what happened to it as along as we didn’t crash. We headed out on Wednesday & I adjusted to driving the car pretty well. We did have one near accident due to confusing diversions (detours) in Newry. I had to pull in to turn around after missing the right exit on a roundabout. Then, this idiot comes in a blocks me & my sight as I’m trying to pull out. Ended up pulling out in front of an oncoming Ulsterbus cause I couldn’t see. Luckily, instincts kicked in & I didn’t hesitate. I just zoomed out quickly saving us from being run over. After that, we had no more problems with near wrecks.
Our first stop was in Glendalough to see the Wicklow Mountains. While the view was gorgeous there, I felt it was overrated compared to the many other mountains in Ireland. From there, we headed to the medieval city of Kilkenny. On the way, we passed what might be the funniest thing I have ever seen driving…an overpass on the motorway for cows to walk between two pastures. It was so hilarious to see cows just crossing a bridge. A day later, we then saw cows literally eating a billboard in their pasture…pretty funny that is was a beer advert & they were munching on the beer glass.
Kilkenny is a wonderful little town. Def in my top 5 places in the Republic. We walked around the town and ended up settling at a bar on the river to take in the sunset over the castle & river. We had originally planned to leave early the next morning, but we were enticed by good shops, a farmer’s market, the castle, & a tour of the Smithwick’s brewery to stick around for half the day. While the farmer’s market was a bust, the castle was interesting to tour. Well preserved with good gardens, plus it was free with our OPW cards thanks to the Mitchell benefits. From there, we did what we do best: hitting the shops. I finally found my green Ireland rugby jersey that I had been so badly wanting, and it was even on sale. From there, we headed to the Smithwick’s brewery for a tour. We found out that they have only starting giving tours very recently since this is their 300th anniversary, so I was pretty excited to see where one of my fav beers is made. Our tour guide was really fantastic at explaining the history of the Smithwick’s family & the importance of the brewery to the city over the past 300 years. We even got to see the original Abbey where brewing started! Of course, we got a pint to taste at the end, which we savored before heading off.
We next headed to see the Rock of Cashel. However, getting there was a painful experience on what may have been the worst rural roads we encountered. The road was narrow (almost to the point of being one lane), the hedges came right onto the road & even hung down, plus much of it was unpaved with giant potholes. It took over an hour to go about 35 miles. It was worth it to see Cashel though. The Rock is the traditional seat of the Kings of Munster (one of Ireland’s 4 historical provinces). The site also has affiliations with St. Patrick as it is here he supposedly converted one of the kings in the 5th century. The current buildings on the site date from the 1100 & 1200s. It is a really imposing site of so much stone work elevated over all its surrounding scenery. Cormac’s Chapel there even still has original wall paintings from 1130s, which in itself is simply amazing. Well worth the visit. From there, we drove on down to Killarney for the night. This would be our starting point for driving the Ring of Kerry. Killarney is surrounded by the beautiful Kerry mountains. We had a nice hostel in the city, but the bed was the hardest bed I have ever slept on. I really might have been better on the floor! We grabbed a good dinner at a local steakhouse, watched the Mexico game in a local pub, and then listened to some trad music at another one. I was pretty pleased to find a Scottish beer there, Innis & Gunn, which I had tried in Edinburgh & is one of the best beers I have ever had with its toffee, vanilla, & oak flavors.
We got up on Friday & hit the road. We drove both the Ring of Kerry & the Dingle Peninsula in one day before making the trek to Galway. Both peninsulas were pretty great scenery with their coastal drives, mountain views, and small villages. However, Dingle def won hands down as the road literally had you right on the coast & you were looking across at the Kerry Mountains, which are so gorgeous and you can’t really see their beauty when you are driving right next to them. We made a stop in Dingle town for lunch enjoying some fresh seafood. More importantly, we found the Dingle ice cream store. We had tried the ice cream in Killarney the previous night. With ice cream flavors ranging from Kerry Cream to sea salt & caramel to Guinness & Bailey’s, the ice cream was just phenomenal. Makes me excited for homemade ice cream in Alabama. Randomly, we ran into a couple we had met on our Smithwick’s tour. They were really nice people from Maryland, who had just randomly decided to do a week-long trip to Ireland. Still can’t believe we saw them twice…shows what a small place Ireland is. From here, we headed to Tralee where we intended to stop & watch the USA-Slovenia match. I must point out that while driving these rural roads are bad enough on their own, meeting & getting behind tractors constantly complicates everything. In this one day of driving in County Kerry, we had to meet over 30 on the road, which means you were always having to pull over for an oversized one or waiting for a (rare) straight away to pass one. It’s not that crazy in Alabama for sure. We made it to Tralee in time for the game & ended up in a strange little pub. It was just us and the owner, an elderly woman of about 70. She told us that she was born in the bar & it had always been in her family. There were just benches to sit on & there was only one bathroom, which comes from when bars only served men. The woman told us how most tourists skip Tralee, which is easy to understand since there is nothing there. It was a great experience for us though. We got frustrated with the USA team & left midway through the 2nd half. We heard on the radio though about our goal & the disallowed one. Still happy that we didn’t lose.
From there, we passed through Limerick & headed to Galway to visit Jon & Lauren Parnell Marino. They have been wanting us to come visit, so I am finally glad we made it happen right before they left. They took us around that night to see the bay & the famous swans. The sunset was especially beautiful this evening, which was nice to see. Galway is a small little town with narrow, winding, & confusing streets, which date back to the city’s founding. They showed us around the town to just get a lay out of everything. We called it an early night in anticipation of Saturday. The next morning, we got up and hit the Galway market. For lunch, I went to McDonaghs which is famous for having the best fish & chips. It did not disappoint, especially considering the fish I chose was catfish! Forgot how much I love catfish…another thing I’ll have to eat back in Alabama next month. From there, Bre & I jumped in the car for a drive to the famous Cliffs of Moher. This was another terrible road made worse by meeting giant tour buses. We passed through The Burren, a rocky and barren landscape, on our way. The Cliffs were really spectacular. Many of the Mitchells give them a bad rap, but I def think they are worth the visit. While not as high as Slieve League, they are more dramatic with their straight drop-offs. It was a great sunny day, so we really enjoyed walking around there & getting out on the edge. I finally caved & bought one of the family history things that all the tourist sites have. I had to get it when I read about the Harbison’s being part of the families that were banished from Scotland but given land in Northern Ireland to be good protestants (the way the English controlled the Irish catholic majority). We then headed back to Galway for Lauren & Jon’s going away party. We had a good evening sitting by the bay, visiting a pub, and ending the night dancing in a crowded club. So sad to go to other’s going away parties as it just reminds me that my own isn’t far off.
Sunday, Bre & I got up to head back to Belfast. We decided to stop by the Hill of Tara along the way. Being a good Southerner & a fan of Gone With the Wind, I probably couldn’t live with myself if I didn’t see the Irish namesake of the O’Hara’s plantation. Tara is the ancient seat and burial site of the Kings of Ireland. Today, Tara is a series of mounds on a high point that provides unobstructed viewpoints to the Wicklow Mountains in the South & the Mourne Mountains in the North. It is a very intriguing site as work is continually done to understand the circular layout and points that correspond with other surrounding mounds. From here, we had plans to easily bypass the motorway tolls & make it home quickly. However, the roadmap lied and we got lost for over an hour. We finally got back on track, but it wasn’t the route we had planned & took longer. We did avoid the tolls though, which we were happy about. In our being lost, we passed through tons of little villages in County Meath, including Slane which is famous as the most dangerous stretch of road on the island. Ireland likes to put up signs telling you how many people have died on roads for set time periods…just a bit morbid for me. We also surprisingly got to pass the Battle of the Boyne site & saw the tower once erected by the Orange forces to commemorate King Billy’s victory over the catholic James. However, the tower today lies in shambles as the IRA blew it up in the Easter Uprising & staked a Tricolor on top of the pile of stones, which is how it still appears today. We made it back to Belfast unscathed but pretty tired. We had gone over 1600 kilometers (just under 1,000 miles) in 4 days. It was well worth the many miles & the big costs of renting a car and buying petrol (gas). For such a tiny car, it cost about 40 euro ($50) each time we had to fill up (which was 4 times). The trip was a truly amazing adventure for us. We got to see all the sites we had wanted to see but hadn’t gotten to visit yet. I can now say that I have really been all over this island, which only reaffirmed my love for Ireland. I even love it considering the terrible CD set of Irish music that was our trip soundtrack in the car. This is a terrific place full of wonderful people, gorgeous scenery, a tragic history, and brilliant experiences. Chalk this up as another memory of this year that I will never ever forget.
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Glendalough
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Me & Harold
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Cows cross the Motorway
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Kilkenny Castle
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In front of the Smithwick’s brewery gates
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Rock of Cashel
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Ring of Kerry
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Bre & I in the Kerry Mountains
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Riding Fungi the Dingle Dolphin
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Swans, the Bay, & the city of Galway
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Sunset over Galway
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My catfish lunch
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Cliffs of Moher
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At Tara